I need to know a few things since someone has done an LS swap. If your wires are NOT orange and white, post back and tell me what color you have and we will try to track down what year harness is in it
IF SOMEONE HAS CHANGED THAT TO SAY A 78 CAMARO WIRING HARNESS THROUGH THE YEARS SOMETIME, THEN THIS WONT WORK AS NOT ALL GO THROUGH THAT DIRECTIONAL SWITCH, IT DEPENDS UPON THE YEAR. THIS IS ALL ASSUMING YOU HAVE THE STOCK WIRING HARNESS FOR THT YEAR (1973) HOWEVER you need to find the wire from number 17 ( letter P, first or last wire) on the directional signal switch and see where it goes BEFORE doing any splicing because there should be a wire there and it should go to the brake switch If you DONT have that wire there you can connect a wire from the brake switch and then to number 17 ( letter P, first or last wire) on the directional signal switch So you shouldnt have to splice into anything, the white wire should be there to plug into the brake light switch. The white wire ( follow the line in the diagram ) connects to your directional signal switch in location 17, which also has the letter "P" stamped into the plastic and is either the very first or very last depending upon how its oriented in the car The orange wire connects to your fuseblock The wires connecting to it are 14 ORG ( 14 gauge orange wire)Īnd 14 NAT (WHT). Underneath that look for " STOP LP SW" this is your stop lamp switch (brake light switch) in front of it is the plug that plugs into it Keep checking back or refreshing page as ill edit my post as i explain Your new relay would confuse it, since the cluster would translate that relay coil's existence as "pedal pressed" 100% of the time.Click the link for the wiring diagram and i will walk you through it So it would not pull in your added relay in either position. And even then it may complain about a "bad bulb".Īdded: from the drawings, i would suspect that the pink/grey wire "floats" (or is drawn very lightly "high" (3v), but is pulled down towards ground when the pedal is pressed. To minimize possible issues (if the Sprinter is depending upon its own relay coil to pull that Bk/Br wire to known voltages, adding another relay coil could *really* mess things up) i'd still play with the actual feed to the brake lights. That then ties the Bk/Br wire to the Instrument Cluster (your Pink/Green (which the diagram calls Grey) wire).įurther messing things up is that pin 4 (Black/Violet) is being fed from the Body Control Module (behind the kick-area fuse block), so it could be going up and down due to other factors (do the brake lights come on when ASR uses them to stop spinning wheels?) The issue that i cannot answer is what happens to that Bk/Br wire when the "right side" switch closes? the official diagram shows the switch like this: When you step on the pedal, it loses that connection (floats), but is effectively pulled down to ground since it feeds the coil of a relay ("relay, additional terminal 15") *plus* the input to the brake system labeled "stop switch output NC". If i'm reading the diagrams correctly, that pin is *normally* held "high" (12v). It ain't "simple".įor what you want to accomplish, i would investigate tapping into the Black/Brown wire(s) coming from pin 3 on the switch (they also attach to pin 1). But the "answer" requires reading both diagrams and understanding (or at least making leaps-of-faith from vague symbology). Click to expand.The information is in the documents i linked to.
0 kommentar(er)
